A Traveller's Guide to French Food

Coq au vin is everywhere, but the dish to seek out in Lyon is quenelle — pike dumpling slow-simmered in a rich sauce at a traditional bouchon. Ask for it a day ahead.

Breakfast is a croissant and coffee; lunch is often a market salad with regional cheese; dinner runs late. In Provence, look for bouillabaisse — fish stew with saffron and rouille.

Street food is safe if it is busy. Follow the queues at the local markets after dark, and try grilled sardines on the harbour at Nice.

The best restaurants — small bistros, rooftop terraces, seafront tables in Bordeaux — take bookings weeks ahead in high season. We can reserve tables and arrange transport as part of your trip.